BUYING ALPACAS - A Guide to Selection

By Nancy Halpin
(Reprinted from 'Town and Country Farmer', Australia - Spring 1991)













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The interest in Alpacas is gaining momentum with Australian farmers and though some may have a degree of knowledge or expertise when selecting other forms of livestock (which has been well documented), when it comes to purchasing Alpacas the criteria are, as yet, less defi ned. The aim therefore of this article is to provide readers with information that can be and should be used as a guide only when looking at selection.

The industry is still in its early beginnings and the ideal of what constitutes the perfect alpaca is still very much open to conjecture; the criteria also vary from breeder to breeder. Your investment into alpacas is a substantial one, so your purchasing decision needs to be the right one and, although the selection of your fi rst alpacas may seem an awesome task, if you do your homework and take a little time to educate yourself about alpacas, you will fi nd the selection will be much easier.

Having made the decision to get involved you will no doubt be fi lled with excitement and enthusiasm at the prospect of purchasing your fi rst alpacas, but it is important right from the start to clearly defi ne what your long-term aims are so that the animals that you purchase meet the criteria. It would be foolish to simply go out and purchase the fi rst alpaca you see, and it is important to remember that alpacas are very much companion animals and will fret if on their own. They like, and need, the company of fellow alpacas, and this should be taken into consideration and also be part of your decision making, as you will need to look at purchasing at least two animals. The total alpaca population in Australia is less than the number of sheep run on a single sheep farm, and this means that there may be only limited numbers of alpacas for sale at any one time and your foundation stock will more than likely have to be purchased from several breeders over a period of time, and although photos can be supplied by breeders of stock for sale, the hands-on approach should be paramount in your purchasing decision. You wouldn’t buy a house without seeing it fi rst, would you?

The essential ingredient in any purchasing decision therefore is to make sure that you do your homework by getting out and visiting as many breeders as possible and by personally looking at and assessing the alpacas that are for sale. Although this may be seen as an added expense and also very time consuming, you will soon discover that there is much to be learned by observing the variety of facilities and animals, not to mention the additional knowledge and expertise that can be gained by just talking to these breeders.

Make sure you plan your inspection trip by making appointments with the breeders you wish to visit. This will not only assist you because the breeder knows to expect you and will be there on hand to answer any question you may have, but will also assist the breeder in being able to have the alpacas that they have for sale close at hand for inspection. You may also wish to have an experienced Vet on hand to give you a critical appraisal of the general health of the animals.

Your initial appraisal should be made from a distance. Note the general conformation of the animals for sale, note the way they walk and hold their heads; this should be a good indication of their general wellbeing. Pick out those alpacas which most take your fancy. This fi rst selection will almost always stand up to closer scrutiny. Good alpacas look good! If choosing alpacas from a small group in a yard, take note of the way they move around. Good healthy alpacas will move around well and it is easy to pick those animals that hold themselves well and have a bit of style about them.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Alpacas are graceful animals and do not fit into the classic box shape which is often the aim of our livestock breeders. The overall appearance of the alpaca should be that of a well proportioned animal which is balanced and symmetrical; i.e. the length of the legs or neck should be in proportion to the body, and the head should be short, thick, triangular and symmetrically formed.

The breed type is also quite evident in both the head and ears. Generally, when looking at the head of an alpaca, especially the females, it should have more of a petite looking head rather than of a great horsey type nose, and its ears should be erect and fi ne; i.e. spear-shaped, the size being in proportion to the head. Short, stubby, gopher-type ears and banana-type ears are not generally considered desirable traits.

The jaw should also be well fi tting. An inspection of the mouth should reveal incisors which are rectangular in shape which lack enamel on the inside surface. The lower front teeth which press against the hard pad of the upper jaw are used to shear the forage, and the cheek teeth are arranged so that the upper and lower rows mesh to produce an effi cient grinding surface. In other words, if the animal has either an overshot or undershot jaw it will not be able to graze properly and will be at a decided disadvantage and/or if the cheek teeth do not mesh, proper mastication of feed will not be possible and the unmeshed teeth, after years, may fail to wear evenly resulting in sharpened points and impaired digestion.

(Refer Figures I to 4.) A point to keep in mind though when inspecting the mouth is to remember that because of the soft pasture which alpacas are feeding on here in Australia the teeth may sometimes grow past the upper pad and this is not classed as an overshot jaw but has simply been caused by insuffi cient wear on the teeth.

DENTAL EVOLUTION AND AGE

The approximate diagnosis of an alpaca’s age through the method of observing the change and the wearing of the teeth is quite accurate, and with the evaluation of dental modifi cations the age can be determined for up to seven years, but after that it is very diffi cult to determine age through this method.

The changing from temporal to permanent teeth in alpacas occurs differently from that of sheep. Sheep generally lose their teeth and the replacements come in later on. In the alpaca, the permanent teeth come in behind the temporal teeth without these having yet fallen. Only as the permanent teeth develop are the temporal teeth pushed out and lost. This can be observed in Figures 5, 6 & 7. Although in relation to age, the individual variations that exist in alpaca dental evaluation are notorious; it is important to note that the age of the alpaca can be determined with a great deal of proximity by the way in which the growth of the temporal incisors takes place, by the way change of teeth takes place, and by the wearing of permanent teeth.

a) The eruption and development of the temporal incisors in relation to age.

1) The eruption of the temporal pincers. There is variation with respect to the age at which the eruption of these teeth take place. Some cases have been noted where alpaca are born with their pincers in eruption; in other cases the eruption occurs during the fi rst week of life; and still in ,others, it occurs later. But in general the pincers have achieved their full development in the fi rst ten days. (Figure 8.)

2) Eruption of the temporal median. There is also a variation in respect to the age at which the eruption of the median teeth occur, between the 14th and 84th day, although full development of the median teeth takes place, on the average, between the 60th and 90th days. (Figure 9.)

3) The eruption of the temporal extremes. Within the variabilities that exist with respect to the age at which eruption of the extremes takes place, it could be said that on average it takes place around the 67th day. And they begin their development starting at the fourth month and achieve full growth around the tenth month. (Figure 10.)



b) Change and development of the permanent incisors in relation to age.

Whereas the temporary incisors complete their development between 3.5 and 4 months, the change of the temporal incisors for the permanent ones is completed at 4.5 years of age. (Figures 11 & 12.)

The chronological evolution of the lower incisors is more or less the same for males and females. Nevertheless, in the dental evolution of the upper incisors and the upper canines, there is a notorious difference in relation to sex. The full development of the upper incisors in males takes from between 3.5 to 4 years, in females it takes over 5 years. Similarly, it is true with the eruption of the upper canines, which in the males occurs around 3.5 years; whereas in females it takes place after the 6th year (when these exist, since many females lack canines). In regard to the lower canines; in the males the eruption occurs at 2.5 years while in females it takes place approximately at 3.5 years.

c) The evolution of the wearing away of the teeth in relation to age.

The wearing away of the teeth is not produced uniformly in all the animals. As we can suppose, many factors intervene in this process, such as individual factors linked to their congenital characteristics and to exogenous factors especially linked to the type of pasture. For these reasons, the wearing away or levelling of the teeth as a means to diagnose age is only approximate. Above all, When the alpaca is over seven years old, levelling of the teeth is subject to great variations.


CONFORMATION









Nature has designed innumerable shapes and sizes to deal with the myriads of situations and environments in which animals live. However, each animal must have four basic structural requirements. First, the body and limbs must be able to support, with stability, the individual when standing and moving. Secondly, the movement of the limbs must be co-ordinated with the body. Thirdly, there must be suffi cient variety in the thrust of the limbs to allow for manoeuvrability, and fi nally, the co-ordinated activity of all the structures must be effi cient to provide suffi cient endurance to cope with environmental stress. Good conformation and structural soundness should therefore be an essential component of your selection process, but it must be remembered that not all conformation faults are equally serious, however, many can result in unsoundness if developed to the extreme.

When looking at the overall conformation of the animal, fi rstly check the body. The animal should have a strong back with a reasonably straight but slightly convex topline. The rump should be reasonably broad and sloping, with the tail set low. Narrow hindquarters, as with any breeding animal, can mean birth problems, so if choosing a breeding female look for good size across the rump. The hind and forelegs should be strong, relatively straight and square standing and the thighs should also be well fl eshed. Pasterns should be fi rm and the feet should be well formed; i.e. two toes, not fused. (Refer Figures 14 - 22.)

Alpacas have fl at feet and for many it takes a bit of getting used to, but this does not mean weakness of the pastern; but there should be no evidence of bending of the bottom joint.

Run your hands over the body of the alpaca. By feeling down the backline, which should be a shallow V, you should be able to determine the condition of the animal. An acute V would mean that the animal is overweight which could result in problems when joining. The weight range for a mature animal; i.e. 3 to 4 years old, should be between 60 and 80 kgs.

If looking to purchase a breeding male it is important to check that he is developed, relative to age, that both testicles are present and uniform in size; this can only be achieved by feel as the testicles are positioned quite high up. Find out if he has mated and if so if you can see some of his progeny, as this may also give you a good indication of his siring ability, but in general, you will fi nd that the males on offer will be younger stock and this will not be possible. On average, males need to be 2.5 to 3 years old before they are mature enough for mating even though they may play around quite a bit before this time.

The selection of a good male should be paramount in your decision making as this is where you should make good ground with your breeding objectives.

With breeding females, the external genitalia should be normal in appearance and the udder can be checked if she has previously been mated. Though small, the udder should show no signs of mastitis and should have four well-formed teats, but as with males, you may fi nd that the animals on offer have not previously been mated. Females should be at least 18 months old and of good size for joining.

If you are looking at purchasing a pregnant female, which generally would be more expensive, it is always advisable to have the pregnancy confi rmed. This can be achieved by either having an experienced Vet do a scan, or by having a blood sample taken and sent to a laboratory for testing. It is advisable to insist that the test be sent to a recognised laboratory for testing rather than be done by the local Vet as it requires a bit more expertise than with other animals.

FLEECE

The fi bre should cover the entire body with the exception of the eyes, muzzle and mouth, and the fl eece should be judged on the following qualitative characteristics: uniformity of fi bre diameter, fi bre placement, crimp, quantity, condition, the quality of fi bre throughout the body and throughout the fi bre. There should be minimal guardhair and the fl eece should be dense, soft, fi ne and uniform.

The head is a good starting point when looking at fi bre. A soft topknot and good cheek wool is a good indication of the fi bre of the rest of the animal. Open Up the fl eece on the mid side of the alpaca’s body and rub the fi bre between your fi ngers. A soft, silky handle is what you are looking for; your hand can often tell you a lot more than your eye.

Once you have selected some animals for a fi nal choice it is then down to personal judgement. This could be colour preferences and just how the animal appeals to you. At this stage there is no commercial preference for colour, and although in the future selection may centre on straight coloured animals, if you choose a two coloured animal (which appeals to you) this does not necessarily mean that your choice is an incorrect one. A two coloured animal can, and often does, produce a straight coloured cria.

NEGATIVE TRAITS

The purpose of outlining these negative traits is to direct attention to fl aws that can be observed in alpacas. Alpacas with fewer defects will help ensure a healthy gene pool for breeding purposes as well as the long term success of the industry.

1. Conformation and Balance

A. Angular Limb Deformity; excessive lateral or medial deviation of the bones and joints of the front and rear legs.

B. Humped Back; an increased convexity or upward curvature of the top line of the back.

C. Sway Back; an increased concavity or downward curvature of the top line of the back.

D. Post-Leggedness; essentially a straight line from the stifl e to the fetlock without the normal zig zag pattern of the hind leg.

E. Dropped Fetlock or Pastern; a weak pastern or less than normal angle of the pastern, possibly resulting in the fetlock and/or pastern touching the ground.

F. Cow Hocked; as viewed from behind, the hocks are excessively deviated towards the midline.

G. Sickle Hocked; as viewed from the side, there is exaggerated hock fl exion resulting in the hind cannon bone being at an angle instead of nearly vertical.

H. Ectopic Testicles; one or both testicles not found in their usual location.

I. Jaw Malocclusions; usually the upper jaw is too short or the lower jaw is too long, contributing to protruding lower teeth. Occasionally the lower jaw is too short or the upper jaw is too long.

J. Female External Genitalia Abnormalities this includes vaginal shelving (lips of vulva approaching horizontal plane instead of normal near vertical plane), a tipped up tip of clitoris (consistent with hermaphroditism and diminutive size).

K. Umbilical Hernia; the presence of a soft fl uctuant bulge at the site of the umbilicus.

L. Gopher Ears; short, stubby ears that are not due to frostbite, but are congenital and hereditary.

M. Banana Ears; more typical of a llama.

N. Gonadal Hypoplasia; smallness of either one or both testicles.

O. History of Surgical Correction For - Angular Limb Deformity, Shortening of the Jaw, Hernia, Hermaphroditism and Ectopic Testicles shall be a basis for disqualifying the animal.

2. Fleece

A. A tender staple with pronounced weakness along the length of the fibre.

B. Lack of uniformity.

C. Brittle fibre.

D. Existence of parasites.

E. Excessive matting.

F. Excessive guardhair.

Finally, when looking to purchase your alpacas, make sure you do your homework, take time to inspect as many animals and breeders as possible, and if possible have an independent inspection done by a Vet. As with any other enterprise, your breeding will only be as good as the animals you start off with. If you start out with poor animals, especially breeding females, even if you have a good male you are not going to have the genetic background on which to build.

And on having purchased your alpacas, make sure that you give some thought to their transportation. You have invested a substantial amount of money, and their well-being is in your hands, so ensure that you transport them safely. Horse fl oats are quite acceptable, as are enclosed stock transports, and it is always advisable to take out insurance prior to transportation.

Sheep breeders are still trying to breed the perfect sheep after hundreds of years of selective breeding. The breeding of the perfect alpaca still has a long way to go, but we hope that this article will be of assistance to you when selecting your alpacas.


Note:

There are two very useful publications which are a must for alpaca breeders.

The Medicine & Surgery of South American Camelids by Murray Fowler; an excellent book to have on hand or to give to your Vet.

Animal Breeding and Production of South American Camelids by Rogoberto Calle Escobar. Both available from: Geoff & Nancy Halpin, Capalba Park Alpacas, 985 Kobyboyn Road, Seymour, Victoria, Australia 3660.

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